Spot treatment: what is it and how do you use it?
A spot treatment is a concentrated product that you apply only to a pimple, not to your whole face. It contains an active ingredient such as salicylic acid, sulfur, azelaic acid, niacinamide, tea tree or centella, which helps dry out the pimple or calm it down. You dab it onto clean skin in the evening with a cotton bud and leave it on. Don't use it on the same spot as other strong acids.
What exactly is a spot treatment?
A spot treatment, sometimes called a blemish treatment or SOS product, is meant for one spot at a time. Where a serum or cream goes all over your face, a spot treatment goes only on the pimple itself. That means the active ingredient can be more concentrated without bothering the rest of your skin. There are lotions you dab on, gels, creams and two-layer drying lotions with a layer of powder at the bottom. You'll find every type in the spot treatments collection.
A spot treatment is quick help for a pimple that has already appeared. It doesn't prevent new ones. For that you need a calm daily routine, as you can read in how do I prevent pimples.
Which active ingredients are in a spot treatment?
Each active ingredient does something different. So don't just look at the product, look at what your pimple needs.
| Active ingredient | What it does | Best for | Good to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Salicylic acid (BHA) | Dissolves sebum in the pore and exfoliates | Pimple with a white head, blackheads | Don't layer with other acids on the same spot |
| Sulfur | Absorbs sebum and dries out the pimple | Oily skin, pimples that are just starting | Can be drying, preferably in the evening |
| Azelaic acid | Calms redness and helps with dark marks after a pimple | Red pimples and marks that linger | Can tingle a little at first |
| Niacinamide | Helps keep sebum production in balance | Oily skin, red patches | Mild, often combined with other actives |
| Tea tree | Plant oil with a purifying effect | Small blemishes | Never neat on your skin, only in a product |
| Centella asiatica | Calms red, irritated skin | Sensitive skin, inflamed pimples | Mainly soothing, not drying |
You'll also often see benzoyl peroxide in spot treatments abroad. In the Netherlands it is classed as a medicine and we don't sell it. If you want to try it, ask your pharmacist or GP for advice.
Which spot treatment helps with a pimple with a white head?
Salicylic acid is the obvious choice here, because it works inside the pore. The Salicylic Acid 2% Drying Lotion by Carbon Theory contains 2% salicylic acid with zinc oxide and calamine, the pink powder you know from drying lotions. Dab it onto the pimple with a cotton bud in the evening and leave it on overnight. It contains alcohol, so if you have dry skin, really only use it on the pimple itself.
The Dryzit Dry Lotion by Acnemy works in the same way, but in two layers. The top layer contains salicylic acid, zinc oxide and niacinamide, and calamine sits at the bottom. You don't shake the bottle, but dip the applicator all the way to the bottom and only dab it onto pimples that have a head. Let it dry and then rinse it off with lukewarm water. Preferably apply it in the evening.
When do you choose sulfur?
Sulfur is a good pick if you have oily skin and feel a pimple coming up. The Sulfur 3% Clean Gel by By Wishtrend contains 3% sulfur, with hyaluronic acid and vitamin E so the skin around it doesn't get too dry. Dab the gel on with a cotton bud as the last step of your evening routine. Don't rinse it off.
What do you use on a red, sensitive pimple?
Then you mainly want to calm it down. The AC Collection Ultimate Spot Cream by COSRX contains the active compounds from centella asiatica, zinc oxide, calamine and a small amount of tea tree oil, with no acids and no alcohol. Dab a little onto the spot after your usual skincare. You can use it morning and evening.
If a red or dark mark stays behind after a pimple, azelaic acid is a good choice. According to the product description, the AZID Azelaic Acid 15% Treatment by Theramid contains 15% azelaic acid, oat extract and five ceramides, and it is fragrance free. You can apply it to single spots or to a larger area where you often get pimples. Build it up slowly, because azelaic acid can tingle the first few times.
Spot treatment or pimple patch: what's the difference?
A spot treatment delivers an active ingredient to the pimple. A hydrocolloid pimple patch absorbs fluid and shields the pimple, so you don't touch it. A patch works best on a pimple with a head, while a spot treatment can be used earlier. You can alternate them: a spot treatment in the evening, and during the day a thin patch on top once the product has absorbed and dried. Which patch to pick, you can read in pimple patches: do they work and which one should you choose.
How and when do you apply a spot treatment?
Cleanse your face and pat it dry. Apply your toner and serum first and let them absorb. Then use a clean cotton bud to dab a thin layer onto the pimple, not onto the skin around it. Most spot treatments are for the evening, because they can be drying and some dry white. Always wear sunscreen during the day.
Don't layer. If you already use an exfoliant with salicylic acid or BHA, glycolic acid or retinol, don't put it on the same spot as your spot treatment. Two strong actives on one pimple make your skin dry and red, and irritated skin actually heals more slowly. If you often have lots of pimples at once, look at a complete routine for acne-prone skin. If you have painful, deep inflammation or scarring, see your GP or a dermatologist.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a spot treatment take to work?
A pimple with a head is often flatter and less red after one or two nights. A pimple that sits deep under the skin needs more time.
Can you use a spot treatment every day?
Yes, as long as your skin doesn't get dry or flaky. If it does, use it every other day or only in the evening.
Can you wear a spot treatment under make-up?
A clear gel or cream, yes, as long as you let it absorb properly first. Drying lotions with a pink or white layer are meant for the night.
Does a spot treatment work on blackheads?
Salicylic acid helps with blackheads because it works inside the pore. For a whole area with blackheads, an exfoliant for your whole face is more practical than a spot treatment.